Alone over the Alps - Stage 1: Gmund to Wildbad Kreuth via the Tegernsee High Trail

This stage marks the beginning of my Alpine crossing on foot from Tegernsee to Sterzing. In this experience report on Stage 1, I'll take you along on my first day – from Gmund to Wildbad Kreuth via the Tegernsee High Trail. Included: cows, Kässpätzle, a historic rowing ferry, and the realization that new hiking boots were not a good idea.

Tip: At the end of this post, I'll show you how I transformed my tour into a stylish elevation profile artwork for my home as a memento of my Alpine crossing .

ℹ️ Alpine Crossing Tegernsee-Sterzing - Stage 1 at a glance

My first day alone across the Alps

Actually, I wanted to organize this long-distance hike myself. Really. I love planning, routing, and the feeling of having everything under control. But eventually, I had to admit to myself: it simply wasn't feasible. No accommodation was willing to confirm a room for just one night so far in advance. It was at this point that I decided to book the Alpine crossing without a mountain guide through www.die-alpenueberquerung.de.

Looking back, that was exactly the right decision. The combination of freedom and comfort suited me perfectly: pre-booked accommodations with half-board, daily luggage transport, and even the return journey from Sterzing back to the starting point. No mountain guide, no group, no fixed pace. I only had to worry about what I love doing most: walking.

And I went on this long-distance hike alone. Quite deliberately. For me, there's hardly anything more beautiful than walking alone through the mountains. My pace, my breaks, my thoughts, and my own rhythm.

Start in Gmund: Sunshine, anticipation, and a container full of suitcases

Shortly before the tour, I had been sick. Angina. And yet, a few days later, I was back in the car, on my way to Gmund. When I arrived at the parking lot at the Oedberg leisure facility (about four kilometers southeast of the town center), there was this feeling between relief and thrill. Other cars of Alpine crossers were also there, and there were specially designated parking spaces for the tour (€20 for eight days).

I placed my suitcase in the marked container for luggage transport. The container was secured with a combination lock; I had received the combination a few days earlier with the travel documents by mail. Suitcase in, backpack on, and off we go.

Arrival on the Tegernsee High Trail

From the parking lot, follow the distinctive "Ü" sign of the Alpine crossing and slowly ascend onto the Tegernsee High Trail. The first few kilometers lead through lush meadows and light forests. The Tegernsee High Trail lives up to its name: time and again, views open up to the turquoise Tegernsee and the surrounding mountains. It's quiet, the cows in the pastures graze peacefully and create a truly calming atmosphere. I love cows. Their calmness is contagious! I stop several times, enjoy the panoramic view, and simply listen to nature. This section is an ideal introductory experience: technically easy, but scenically impressive. Here, every hiker has the perfect opportunity to slowly get into the rhythm of a multi-day tour.

Refreshments in Tegernsee: Ice cream & my first foot blister

After about an hour and a half, I reach the small village of Tegernsee on the northern shore of the lake. Here, I take a well-deserved break and treat myself to two scoops of ice cream at the picturesque lakeside promenade (vanilla and strawberry, in case you were wondering). The lake sparkles, with mountains rising behind it. This is how a first hiking day should begin! Unfortunately, I quickly notice a blister forming on the back of my heel. Big mistake, new shoes on the first day! But with a plaster and perseverance, I simply take it with humor. After all, I have time, and the panorama is a grand distraction.

This ferry! A real highlight

Just beyond Tegernsee, a small highlight awaits: the historic rowing ferry to Rottach-Egern, which takes you to the opposite bank without an engine. King Max I. Joseph of Bavaria already used this very ferry (called "Überführer") in the 19th century to save himself the detour around Tegernsee Bay. And even today, it's an experience from another era. I ring the small bell on the shore, and a little later, the wooden boat casts off, accompanied by the gentle creaking of the wood and a friendly nod from the ferryman. No engine noise, no hustle and bustle. Just the rhythmic dipping of the oars into the water.

Anyone who treats themselves to the rowing ferry pays only €3.10 - and gets ten decelerating minutes right in the middle of Lake Tegernsee. I sit among strangers who are as reverently silent as I am. It is quiet, the water sparkles, the sun burns on my back.

With each stroke of the oars, everyday life seems to disappear further behind me. If you're ever wondering if this ferry ride is worth it: Yes, absolutely yes.

I'm planning the return trip to Tegernsee at a relaxed pace: Originally, my stage was supposed to lead to Wildbad Kreuth, but since there are no overnight accommodations there, a return trip by bus was already planned.

Hiking through Rottach-Egern: From green meadows to the Wallbergbahn

After crossing with the rowing ferry, I stroll through Rottach-Egern. The place seems quiet and friendly, almost like a mini-vacation within a vacation. I follow the marked path towards the Wallbergbahn, my final destination for today's stage. The path winds past green meadows, framed by the gentle panorama of the Bavarian Prealps.

Shortly after, I pass a small farm where some goats are comfortably dozing under a tree. One sits perched high on a wooden platform and looks at me almost regally, while others cuddle up or lie relaxed in the sun, chewing. I stop, smiling. For me, it's moments like these that make being on the road so special.

I walk on until I finally reach the bus stop at the Wallbergbahn. There I board the regular bus back to Tegernsee and let the landscape pass me by. No panic, all good. After all, there are still six more days of hiking ahead of me. And I want to enjoy them, not limp through them.

Bad Wiessee: Lake view, Kässpätzle, happiness

Back at Tegernsee, I stroll to my accommodation in Bad Wiessee. After checking in, I'm immediately drawn back to the lake in the late afternoon. Just to let the day sink in and enjoy the peace and quiet. The lakeside promenade in Bad Wiessee is an absolute dream this evening: bright sunshine bathes the water and mountains in warm light, and a soft shimmer frames the whole scene. Prominently positioned over the water is a large, wooden picture frame: a popular photo spot. Through this frame, you can see Tegernsee and the mountains in the background. Of course, I can't resist taking a photo right there: the moment has to be captured.

A few steps further, I sit down at a table in a cozy guesthouse. I order a large portion of Kässpätzle (I love Kässpätzle) and I can tell you: they taste simply perfect here. As I devour one forkful after another, I watch the sun slowly set behind the mountains. The last colors of the day reflect in the water, and this feeling of happiness washes over me: everything is good, and I am right where I want to be. This is how a first hiking day should end.

Elevation Profile Artwork: My Souvenir for Home

I definitely didn't want to forget this tour. Not just as photos on my phone or as a GPS track languishing on some hiking app. I wanted something tangible that would remind me of the journey every day.

So I created a minimalist line drawing from my route (Stages 1 to 7): an elevation profile artwork that now hangs as a unique piece in my home. Every meter of elevation, every stage, every memory, immortalized in a clear, aesthetic design.

And that's exactly what I'm doing now for other hiking enthusiasts.

So if you want to see your very own path over the mountains as a stylish memento on your wall, I'll create your own artwork from the GPX track of your tour. For yourself or as a special gift for your hiking companion.

Design your personal elevation profile now